JDsleds.com -> Technical Information -> The Barn Find

"The Barn Find"
So - you've located buried treasure in the form of a vintage snowmobile hiding out in a barn, shed, or perhaps even out in a field. 
This article describes the right way to bring it back to life, and have a reliable machine to enjoy riding, rather then struggling with it later while the snow is flying.

Chapter  1: Barn Find - Now What?

So you dragged home a sled that you found in a barn that has been sitting for years.  You have decided to get it running and go out and have some fun on the snow.

So what do you do and where do you start?  I read a lot of posts on here from new members that jump right on the engine to get it running.

Maybe you do get it to run but the fun on the snow may only last 15 minutes.  A sled that has sat for years needs a lot of attention.   There are a lot of things to look over and address on a vintage machine in addition to the engine.  Chances are that you will not have much success if you start work on it Saturday morning and expect to hit the trails later that day.

Another scenario is the sled you drive by everyday on the way to work. The first time you saw it you stopped and looked at it with the $600 FOR SALE sign on it.  A few days later you notice it has been moved and the price is now $500. The next week you see some people out there looking at it.
But two days later it is still there and the sign says $200.

So you stop and knock on the door this time. The guy says it may need some work. He really just wants it gone.  Others have looked at it, maybe even drove it, but it is still there. You buy it for $100.

There is probably a good reason so many others have passed on this sled. Likely lots of reasons!  But if you think that because you got it so cheap you don't want to put much money into it, you are not being realistic.  If you want an old sled to be safe and reliable it will involve two things; time and money.  Make those three things: Patience.

Over the years I have resurrected over 100 vintage snowmobiles. Some I found in the trees, others in sheds. Some were bought at swap meets, others won on e-bay.  A few were free for the taking; others set me back $50. A few I paid hundreds for.  But the upfront cost is nothing compared to what it will take to do the thing up right.

A good rule of thumb is the cheaper the sled was the more it will cost to bring it back to a condition that is close to what is was when it was new.
And that does not mean restoring it to show condition. That will run you into serious money.  What I mean is making sure that it starts and runs reliably, the brakes and lights work, and it looks decent.

Ask anyone that has done a full bore restoration and if they are honest they will tell you they have thousands into it.  I have nothing against restoring; in fact I have done a couple myself.  But I take pride it putting them back on the snow rather than in the show.  Making sure that all the original parts are in place and everything works like it is suppose to is what I do with most of the sleds I have had my hands on.  Originality and completeness is very important when you go to sell a machine, especially if it is a rare model. Some parts are almost impossible to find.

Chapter 2: Back to Front

I figured I would take a few minutes and type up my thoughts after reading hundreds of post on this forum.

As mentioned earlier most guys jump right on the engine from the get go.  So do I.   The first thing I do is pull the engine out of the chassis and set it aside.  It is the last thing I look at when I start a sled project.  WHY?? Because I feel it is the easiest thing to fix.
I don't know, maybe there is something wrong with me.

So starting at the back...

Rear bumper: This is important as it adds rigidity to the tunnel. It makes lifting the sled easy. It may be part of the tow hitch. If it is missing or broken replace it.
Taillight: It is important to have a working taillight and if so equipped a brake light. For a buck you can buy a new 1157 bulb and be safe and be seen. Replacement lens are available and cheap.
Seat: While some say this is only a cosmetic thing, keep in mind with limited suspension travel your back will appreciate foam that is in good condition. A new seat will set you back a few hundred.

Rear suspension: It doesn't matter what is under the tunnel... boggies, slides or a hybrid combination of both, pull it out. Usually 6 bolts, but sometimes only four. Set it on the bench or a couple of saw horses and let the fun begin. All wheels (idlers and boggies) have bearings. If they are stuck, noisy, broken you have work to do. Slides may need replacement. Every weld on the system needs to be inspected for cracks. Springs need to be checked. Some sleds have up to 12 rear suspension springs. Bushings may be worn out. Shocks may be broken, stuck or weak. Limiter straps may be missing, worn or broke. Tension adjusting bolts may be stripped. Spring guides broke. Rail bumpers missing. There is a lot to look at on the suspension but it is very important that every part be checked. A broken spring tang can ruin a track in seconds. Or worse, can lock up the track and cause a serious accident.

Track: If you have a cleated track, look at every cleat and rivet. A broken cleat can be really dangerous. Remove and replace any rivets or cleats that are loose, cracked, etc. I have actually seen a cleat stuck up through the seat clean though the tunnel. Not a problem if you are done fathering children. A rubber track needs to have all the clips in place and in good condition. Clips cost a buck a piece. Replacing all of them is not out of the question and cheaper than replacing the track. This does require a special tool. If the track is studded, picked, clawed or whatever you have more to inspect. A stud flying out the rear of your sled at 60 MPH will not make the guy behind you very happy.

Skis: Look for cracks and enlarged mounting holes for the spring brackets. Ski loops and shock mounts in particular are often fatigued and cracked. Make sure that the leaf springs are all intact and have even pressure side to side. Wear rods, carbides or hard bars need to be in usable condition or replaced. Spring cushion slides may be worn out or completely missing. Ski bumpers missing. Mounting bolts worn out or the wrong size. Many sleds have cast saddles which can be cracked. The saddle bolts may well be worn out. New bolts will help with sloppy steering and cost less than a buck.
Ski shocks may be bent, frozen, leaking or just plain junk.

Belly pan: That sure is an ugly dent under there. But with the engine out, a 30 second fix. Look for missing or loose rivets. Bumper mounts and hardware need to be inspected. Hood hinges, guides, hold downs. Bumper got a nasty dent? Take it off and press it back into shape.

Steering: There is nothing worse than sloppy steering. It is unsafe and makes your arms sore. Set an upside-down 5 gal bucket on the floor between the skis. Grab the ski loops and lift the skis up and, then with your foot push the bucket under the front bumper. The next step will be an eye opener! Grab both ski loops and move then in opposite directions. If you have more than an inch of play or slop you have a job in front of you. Any and all of the following can be worn out. Tie rod ends, linkages, spindle bushings, saddle bushings, spring cushions, steer post bushings, pivot bushings, saddle bolts. Any part or piece that has wear will contribute to the play. Now grab each ski one at a time from the side. Does it wiggle sideways? More work found. Grab the handle bars. How much can you move them before one ski or the other moves? I have yet to see any sled with more than 1000 miles on it that did not need some quality time spent on steering. But your efforts will be rewarded with superior handling and control.

Bulkhead: Look for cracks on all welds. Worn out motor mounts? Bad mounts cause excessive vibration and make proper clutch/belt alignment impossible. Any misaligned pieces or previous repairs? Missing bolts? Allows look for bits and piece in the bottom of the pan as you can learn a lot for what you find there. If you have electric start, check the battery box real good.

Gas tank: All tanks have a vent, somewhere. It can be in the filler cap or a separate small barb sometimes with a small short line that goes nowhere attached. The tank mounts must be intact to hold the tank from shifting. A leak can develop form the tank rubbing on the chassis. Inside the tank there is a pickup tube. There should be a filter with a check valve on the end of this tube. This makes the difference between starting on the first pull and starting and the 15st pull. The tank outlet grommet needs to seal on the tank. A new grommet cost $3.00. Most all gas caps have a rubber gasket under them. If it is missing you will have gas leaking out the cap while ridding. This makes your crotch smelly.

Time for a break.

Chapter 3: Bottom to Top

Ok so time to get to the meat and potatoes. The Drive:

Chain case: Chances are when you pull the cover off you will find either black tar that 40 years ago was liquid or you will find nothing. But as long as the cover is off and suspension is out, remove the two bolts that retain the sprockets. Pull the two sprockets and chain off at the same time and let them soak in solvent. A coffee can with kerosene, a parts washer or whatever you have. After they are clean examine them for worn or broken teeth. Check the chain over real close for wear, bent or damaged links. Most of the time brand new parts are available. Now grab some sockets and take out the 6 bolts that hold the drive shaft bearing flanges in place on the tunnel and the speedometer drive. Loosen the bearing retainers on the drive shaft. Slide the drive shaft to one side and drop the track off the shaft. Then pull the drive shaft out of the chassis. New bearings cost $15 each. Buy them! Inspect the drive sprockets carefully. Look for cracks, excessive wear on the teeth. Look for signs that the sprockets have shifted on the shaft. Check the spines on the shaft and the bushing for the speedometer drive. And the square drive key. Having fun yet?

Jack shaft: Simple hand tools will go a long way when working on a sled, any sled, any color, any age. Grab one of the two sheaves on the clutch and give it a wiggle. If it wiggles you have more work. Probably needs new bushings. Remove the secondary clutch from the shaft, usually just one bolt. Set it aside for later. Look at the keyway on the shaft and the key itself. A new key cost 50 cents so if in doubt, through it out. Now grab the shaft in the middle when it is still mounted in the sled. If you can move it at all up or down or side to side you have more bearings to buy. Zero movement is the spec here. Grab the brake disc. Wiggle it. Here there should be play. The disc has to be able to move side to side (or float) on the shaft otherwise the brake pads will wear prematurely. Look at the pads. How much material is left on them and is the wear even? Are there groves worn in the disc? Are the calipers loose? Any missing hardware? If any part of the brakes need service than remove the whole assy.

Secondary Clutch: While the clutch is very simple in design and easy to service its proper operation is critical to overall performance. There are many different clutches out there but they all operate on the same principle. First thing to do is take it apart. Caution is needed here as the assembly is under spring tension. Also note that clutches are balanced at the factory so you should mark the two sheaves and the ramp so you can reassemble in the same position. Either bolts or pins hold it together. Keep pressure on the assembly as you loosen or remove the retainers so the spring does not launch them into your face. A vise, a buddy or a specific clutch holder will do the trick here. Ok so now you have about 8 pieces laying the work bench. Clean everything first then inspect. Sheaves need to be groove free and smooth. The ramps may show wear but should be even. The slides, cams, buttons or shoes are only a buck apiece so replace at will. The spring tangs may be broken or cracked. The spring should look straight. If the coils are deformed replace it. Closely examine the two holes that the tangs fit in. Look for fractures. Clutch parts are made from die cast metal so do not confuse casting flaws with cracks. Some high performances, i.e. racing components are made from aluminum and spin at 12 grand. These clutches are best left in the hands of professional rebuilders as balance is critical at those RPM. They can also do ultrasonic examining for metal fatigue. Are new bushings needed? Lube the shaft, bushings and ramps on reassembly. The spring usually goes in the middle hole but not all clutches have 5 holes. Some only have one. Proper preload of the ramp is very important. Consult the service manual for you specific sled.

Primary Clutch: How do you get it off the engine? This is one place where the proper tool is warranted. There are probably 30 different clutch pullers out there for as many different clutches. If you only intend to work on a couple of different types, than buy the right tool for the job. Die cast metal is no place to use a torch. Same goes for a 3-jaw puller. Otherwise borrow one from a sled shop or tote your engine to their door and have them pop it off for you. Either way a little prep work will make removal easy. Remove the retaining bolt, washer, locknut, and spacer and lay the engine on its side. Spray your favorite penetrating oil in the hole. Let it sit there at least overnight. Most all clutches are friction fit on a tapered shaft so if it has not been off in 40 years it will be stuck tight. Some really old makes actually had threaded on clutches. Once it is off it needs to be disassembled. Again it is under spring pressure so use caution. Unlike the secondary, the primary can have a lot more parts. Maybe as many as 40 pieces. It is not necessary to completely rip it apart but you do have to open it to check for wear and lubrication. If you have to replace some of the smaller pieces, than set out your parts tray. There are cams, arms, spacers, rollers, pins bolts, ramps, splines, bushings, etc. Did I say only 40? Some clutches actually have a bearing for the belt to ride on at idle. Anyway the key here is wear. Once all the parts are clean, with your eyes and your fingers you can inspect every part and the bad ones will be obvious. You will be able to see wear, cracks or things that don't move that should. Lubricate parts that need to stay free. Reassemble.

Controls and Instrumentation: Things like brake and throttle levers, switches, buttons, levers and knobs should all be checked for smooth operation. The ignition should lock the key in the switch in any position except off. If you have ES, the spring return should snap the key back to RUN on its own. If you did not get a key with your sled, brand new switch assembly with two keys are still made for just about any sled for less than $20.00. Look at the cables for frayed wires, kinked housings or rust. If it is not free moving replace it. Check plastic levers for cracks and wear where the pins attach it to the blocks on the handlebars. Choke levers or knobs should move freely. Check for proper operation of primer buttons or knobs. Check gauges for cracked lens and proper mounting in the dash. Test dimmer switches with an ohm meter or continuity tester before you even start the engine so you know they work and won’t become a pain in troubleshooting electrical issues later. Same goes for throttle safety circuits. These can get very complex on newer models with as many as three on the handlebars and three on the carburetors with a triple under the hood. Test light bulbs on the dash gauge back lights. It is easier to do it now then after all the air boxes and other parts are installed on the sled. Any other electrics can be checked before reassembly also. Things like high beam indicators, low oil lights, warmers etc.

Chapter 4: The Heart of the Beast

Are we having fun yet?

Exhaust: It is important that the exhaust system be intact and correct for the engine. From the manifold to the outlet the system must be leak free but remain flexible. If parts of the exhaust were rigidly mounted to the chassis it would vibrate itself to pieces hence the use of springs and rubber mounts. All attachment points need to be inspected to ensure they are intact and serviceable. Pay attention to ball joints and flex tubes. Make sure that the muffler outlet is centered in the hole as not to rub or melt the belly pan. Ensure the muffler and/or expansion chamber has not become a home for mice. Any resistance to air flow or change in volume inside the exhaust will affect performance. Remove the exhaust and shake it. Nothing should rattle inside. Hold one end up and smack the side with your hand. Do you see acorns and seat foam falling out? Stick a garden hose in one end and give it an enema. After it flows clear switch the hose to the other end and repeat. It is amazing how much crap can be in a pipe. When you reinstall the parts make sure that nothing touches the system that can burn or melt. Wiring harness, tool bag, spare belt etc. Any heat shields that were originally on the machine were there for a reason and should be replaced if they are missing. Any leaks repaired either by welding, muffler bandage or replacement. A leaking exhaust will make a filthy mess under your hood.

Fuel and carburetors: The biggest enemy here is dirt. Dirt can also mean rust. Vintage metal fuel tanks rust on the side. Ever wonder what happened to the fuel gauge on the cap when you take it out of the tank for the first time? It may be lying in the bottom of the tank along with a few decades worth of pickup lines and filters. A new inline fuel filter is a must with any sled project. Cost is $3.00 and you better by two right away as the first one can plug up fast. Complete replacement of all fuel lines is a must. And don't forget about the piece from the crankcase to the fuel pump. Do not use black gas line like a car engine uses. Mixed fuel has a nasty habit of dissolving the rubber hose from the inside. Use quality line made for sleds. The 30 cent foot vinyl stuff from the hardware store is not the way to go. Quality line will cost a buck a foot and is a bargain at that price. Carburetors and fuel pumps need to be completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned; soaking overnight is the way to go. There are tiny little passages that have to be open throughout the pieces of a carburetor. Any moving parts need to move freely. Any rubber or plastic parts need to carefully inspected. If in doubt replacement is the way to go. Complete overhaul kits are available and cheap at $25 for carburetors and less than $10 for pumps. Check that the correct needles and jets are in your carburetors. It does not matter what brand or configuration of components you have they all work the same if they are in serviceable condition. A Mylar gasket that is stiff or a seat that is worn will be a headache when you try to make it run later. Most carburetor kits come with instructions and most important, a diagram as to how it all goes back together. Some diaphragm carburetors can have over 50 parts and some are really tiny. A clean well lit work area and your wife's muffin pan will aid in a good rebuild.

Electrical: Wiring harnesses should be inspected from the headlight to the taillight and everything in between. Connectors pulled apart with the pins and sockets cleaned. Rodents love to chew on wires so look for abrasions or cuts that can short out to the chassis. Any connections to the framework, tunnel and engine should be removed and cleaned with a wire brush to ensure continuity. Any heat sinks on voltage regulators need a clean contact with the chassis to dissipate heat and maintain a good ground. Any crimp terminals should be cleaned. If you see anything in the wiring that looks like it is not original pay close attention to what was changed and why. Too many previous owners thought they knew more than the factory engineers that designed the snowmobile and made changes, many times for the worse. Keep in mind that the electrical system on a sled is actually two separate systems. Ignition and lighting: The only thing they share in common is chassis ground and the flywheel.

The lighting system starts out as AC or alternating current at the stator. It remains AC unless the sled has electric start, in that case at some point DC or direct current is required to charge the battery, engage the solenoid and crank the starter. Some models actually used DC to run the lights. Some really old engines had such weak lighting coils that they did not use voltage regulators. Modern sleds with high output coils use an electronic voltage regulator but most vintage sleds use the same basic regulator and new ones only cost $20. Very few sleds used fuses or circuit breakers so a short circuit can take out a coil requiring replacement. Some older models actually used two lighting coils such as early Yamahas where one coil was for the brake light only and the second coil was only used when the key switch was in the RUN/Lights position. Some sleds did not use a light switch; the lights are one whenever the engine is running. This makes for a simpler system and is a safety feature. Pay close attention to the light bulb sockets. A shorted wire in the socket will dim out all the lights on the sled.

The ignition system can be points or CDI. CDI stands for Capacitive Discharge Ignition and is the more reliable system as the only moving part is the flywheel. But when it does fail it costs a lot more to fix. Components can include the CDI box, trigger coils, pulse coils, exciter coils, pickups or any combination of these. The remaining components are shared with the points system and include external or primary coil(s), spark plug wires (high tension wires), plug cap and the spark plugs themselves. Spark plugs need to be of the proper heat range for the engine design and fuel used and the proper length. There are no universal spark plugs for engines. Some CDI systems use simultaneous fire where both sides fire at the same time. They have only one external coil and fire twice in one revolution. With some CDI systems the timing is not adjustable mechanically. There are two types of systems out there: open and closed. This refers to the way it stops the engine. In an open system the contacts on the key/kill switches are open to run. On a closed system they have to make a connection in order to run. With the open system you can unhook the connector at the engine the engine will run.

The simpler points system consists of points, condensers and coils all mounted on the stator plate. The remaining external components are shared with the CDI type ignitions. All points systems are open type systems. When you stop the engine with the key or kill switch you are making a connection between the points and hence no spark. There are several stator designs out there and on some if you have a failure on one side it will affect the other. On the rest you can still have spark on one side. Point gap has to be checked carefully. Timing is adjustable by small movement on the stator plate in the slotted holes. All components of a points system can be checked with an OHM meter. All key/kill/safety switches can also be checked. CDI Boxes cannot be tested this way. Whatever type of system is on your sled a wiring diagram is a great help in troubleshooting. When testing you are looking for opens or shorts. A short is zero ohms. An open is infinite ohms. All coils have some resistance. It may be as low as 0.5 ohms or as high as 3000 ohms, but that is not the same as zero or open. Key switches can have as few as two connections or as many as seven. The most common is five. Two are for ignition and are NO (normally open). Two are for lighting and are NC (normally closed). The fifth one is for the electric start and there may not be a wire on this terminal if the sled was not built with ES.

So what did I miss?
Oh yeah, the engine.

Chapter 5: The Mill

So we got to the engine.

Two stroke engines all work the same whether they have one, two, three or four cylinders. They can be configured as horizontally opposed, vertical or rotary.
They all need three things to run: Compression, spark, and fuel.

Compression: Depending on design compression can be as low as 30 lbs or as high as 200 plus PSI. Most engines are in the 120 to 150 range. Knowing what is supposed to be will tell you if you have a problem once you test it. On multi cylinder engines compression must be relatively even. Readings of 140 and 150 are ok. But 120 and 150 is not. If it is off by over 10% you have yet another adventure ahead of you. Cylinder compression has nothing to do with the condition of the crankshaft seals. Nothing. Seals are a key factor in the condition of any engine. It may start and run but with a bad seal it will not run long.
Spark: Having spark is important but having that spark at the correct time is critical. If your timing is a little off you will be robbed of power. If it is a lot off you will melt the engine or it will not run at all. If you do not have the proper tools and instruments to set timing, start with the stator in the center of the adjustments and pay very close attention to operating temps and spark plug color. Other factors like air/fuel mixture and gas/oil ratio can affect color so make sure everything is where it is suppose to be. Spark plug gap and point gap have to be set to specs. A common problem is an engine that will not start but only backfires when you pull it over. It may be firing 180 degrees out of time. A quick test would be to switch the plug wires around. If it then starts the fix would be two reverse the two wires going to the external coils.

Fuel: Again the ratio of air to fuel is critical. Too lean and the engine will run hot and melt down. Too rich and it will smoke, foul plugs and run poorly. The gas oil mixture is important also. Too much oil and it smokes and carbons up the plugs. Too little oil and the bearings run dry and the engine will overheat and seize up. Old gas will not burn right. If you have 3 year old gas in the tank it may not run at all. Always buy premium gas. The benefits are worth the extra 20 cents a gallon.

So, testing the engine has determined that it needs some quality time on the workbench. The best way to go is a complete engine tear down with every single piece taken apart. Every nut and bolt. If you do not know the history of the engine, if it is stuck, if it has noises when you roll it over, if you can see damage on it or in it, if there is a hole in the piston, if there is white aluminum deposits on the plugs or the exhaust manifold or if you are just bored some weekend... grab your tools.

The only tool you may not have is a puller for the flywheel. A harmonic balancer puller is the tool you need. You can buy one for $50, rent one or barrow one from a friend or a garage. But you need one. A three jaw puller may work to remove the flywheel but if you go that route you will need a new flywheel. If you take a torch to the flywheel to remove it you will be looking for a new flywheel also. Even if the flywheel has never been off the crankshaft it will come off with the proper puller and some patience. In some cases patience is spelt BFH.

The primary clutch also requires some finesse to remove. Again the tool to use is the proper puller. Buy one, rent or barrow the specific puller for the clutch you have in front of you. There are 30 some pullers out there so make sure that the one in your hand if the correct one. Never reach for the torch to help with a stubborn clutch. A heat gun is ok but as clutches are made from die cast metal and some clutches have plastic pucks in them the torch will turn them into a puddle.

A service manual is a must if this type of work is new to you. It will offer step by step instructions and pictures. Specs and tolerances that have to be met are important. Sure some things are obvious but others require careful measurements. As you remove parts from the engine put them in a pail so you don't lose any small pieces like woodruff keys and smaller fasteners. Once you are down to the crankshaft you are done. Now the cleaning starts. It takes me at least three hours to clean an engine. Every part gets soaked and brushed and then is inspected. All carbon deposits are removed. Ports cleaned with a small brush. Oil passages checked. It is very detailed work but a clean engine is happy engine and even a tiny spec of rust, dirt or metal fragment in a bearing means you get to tear it all down again in a week. Once every part is clean the inspection begins. Heads need to be damage free. Spark plug threads chased. Rings inspected and spec out or better yet renewed. Pistons carefully examined. Look for cracks, scars, groves, and sign of overheating. Look closely at the flywheel magnets. Are they loose or damaged? Wrist pin bearings and pins: Any damage to the circlips when you removed them?
The crankshaft needs very close inspection. This is one component that you may have to place in the hands of a pro if service is needed. You can chase the threads in the PTO end where the clutch retainer bolt was. The threads for the flywheel nut can be chased it they need it. There can be as few as two main bearings or as many as six on your crank. If any are noisy, loose or stuck you have gone as far as you can. But if you have a press and some shop tools you can change the outer bearings. If the problem bearing is in the middle or the connecting rod bearings are flaking, rough or questionable off to the pro the crank must go. Look very closely at the center seals. If they are sloppy on the shaft or the springs are missing then you have to see the crankshaft doctor.
At a minimum you will need a complete engine overhaul kit. This will include all seals, gaskets and O-rings that are needed for a rebuild. Once you are ready for reassembly open up the package and lay out all the pieces in the set. Account for each part. Note that some kits contain extra parts that may not be needed in your engine. Again having the service manual open on the bench is the way to go.
Sort through all the hardware that you cleaned. Put all like pieces in separate piles. This will help make sense of it all as there can be over 100 nuts, bolts, and washers in the pile. Put one of a kind parts and spacers in a separate pile. For example having all 8 mm washers in one pile and all 6mm nuts in another will help. If you sort through all the hardware beforehand this really does help.

I use a muffin pan, sometimes two. For example if you put all the 6mm bolts in one pile and sort through them by length you can see that the two long ones are for the coils, the three shortest ones are for the starter cup, the four slotted ones are for the recoil, these 8 must be for the shrouding and these four are for the intake manifold. When you are looking at the bolts for the case halves note that there may be 12 bolts but they are not all the same length. Inspect all the threads on the studs and bolts. If they are damaged replace them or chase the threads. If you have a blown out hole on, for example one of the recoil holes in the fan housing, you can install a heli-coil to make it good as new. Don't mess with damaged hardware as it will be a problem when you go to torque everything down. Used just enough sealant when you put the case halves together, not too much. If it is oozing out on the outside it is also oozing out on the inside. Sealant does not make a good lubricant for bearings.
Coat base gaskets with oil. Pre-lube all bearings with oil. It will smoke big time on first startup but it will be well lubed. Torque heads slowly and evenly and re-torque after the engine is started, warmed up and then allowed to cool down.

After all this is said remember that the keys to a successful rebuild are clean parts, close inspection and attention to details. It is not rocket science but it does require time and patience. You may find it necessary to use some emory cloth here and there, file a nick off of something, and hone the cylinders, etc, but when you do that please re-clean those parts.

Article by Todd Schrupp “JDT”

Posted on the JDsleds.com Community Forums.